Bezel Wire for Jewellery Making
What is Bezel Wire?
Bezel wire - also known as bezel strip - is a thin, flexible strip of metal used to craft bezel settings: elegant rims that surround and secure gemstones. As one of the oldest and most reliable stone-setting techniques in jewellery, bezel wire is prized for its combination of strength, design versatility, and clean aesthetics.
Unlike prong settings that expose a gem’s edges, a bezel wraps around the sides of a stone, offering superior protection—especially important for softer or fragile gemstones. From rings and pendants to earrings and brooches, bezel settings provide a modern, smooth finish while firmly anchoring your gemstone in place.
✨ Why Jewellers Love Bezel Wire
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Security: Provides full or partial stone coverage for enhanced durability
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Elegance: Creates a sleek, polished frame around the stone
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Versatility: Easily adapted to almost any stone shape or jewellery design
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Ease of Use: Friendly for beginners and pros alike; easily soldered, shaped, and filed
Bezel wire is available in a wide variety of metals, including:
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Sterling silver
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Fine silver
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9ct, 14ct, and 18ct yellow, rose, and white gold
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Platinum
At Ore Metals, we offer high-quality Australian bezel wire, precision-made to meet your creative vision. 👉 Explore Bezel Wire at Ore Metals
Where to Buy Bezel Wire
For high-quality bezel wire, it's essential to choose a reputable supplier. Ore Metals offers an extensive selection of bezel wires crafted from Australian precious metals, including sterling silver and solid gold alloys such as 9ct, 14ct, and 18ct yellow gold, rose gold, white gold, and platinum. Our products are designed to meet the needs of both novice and experienced jewellers, ensuring durability and ease of use.
How to Use Bezel Wire
Using bezel wire involves several key steps:
- Measuring and Cutting: Wrap the bezel wire around the gemstone to determine the required length, then cut it accordingly.
- Forming the Bezel: Shape the wire to fit snugly around the stone, ensuring the ends meet seamlessly.
- Soldering: Join the ends of the bezel wire using soldering techniques to create a continuous loop.
- Setting the Stone: Place the gemstone within the bezel and Using a bezel roller and/or bezel pusher, carefully push the metal over the stone's edge to secure it.
What Size Bezel Wire to Use
Height (Width of the Strip)
The bezel height should sit just below the top of the stone:
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Common range: 3mm to 5mm
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Higher bezels offer more coverage; shorter bezels allow more of the stone to show
Thickness (Gauge)
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0.3mm (28 gauge) – Soft and easy to shape, ideal for beginners
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0.5mm (24 gauge) – Stronger, more durable; better for larger or valuable stones
Your choice depends on stone hardness, wearability, and design aesthetic.
Different Types of Bezel Wire
Bezel wires come in various styles to suit different design needs:
- Plain Bezel Wire: Features a smooth, unadorned edge, ideal for minimalist designs.
- Sawtooth/Serrated Bezel Wire: Has a jagged edge that adds decorative detail and provides extra grip on the gemstone.
- Gallery Wire: Decorative wire with intricate patterns, often used to create ornate settings.
- Ledge Profile Bezel Wire: available in a thin ledge or thick ledge, allowing for customizable depth and dimension in the setting.
Each type offers unique benefits, enabling jewellers to achieve specific aesthetic and functional outcomes.
Benefits of Using Bezel Wire for Settings
Bezel wire is a cornerstone of jewellery design, offering a blend of functionality and elegance that enhances any piece. Whether you’re creating a statement ring or a delicate pendant, bezel wire delivers unmatched benefits:
1. Security
Bezel wire encases the gemstone completely, holding it securely in place. This protective rim shields the stone’s edges from chipping, making it ideal for softer gemstones or jewellery that will be worn frequently. Unlike prong settings, which expose parts of the gemstone, a bezel setting provides all-around coverage, reducing the risk of damage from knocks or scratches.
2. Versatility
One of the greatest advantages of bezel wire is its versatility. It can be shaped to accommodate gemstones of virtually any size or shape, from round and oval to square or custom cuts. This flexibility makes it a go-to choice for jewellers working with unique or irregularly shaped stones. Additionally, bezel wire comes in various materials, styles, and profiles, allowing it to be adapted for a wide range of design aesthetics.
3. Aesthetic Appeal
Bezel wire provides a sleek, continuous edge that frames the gemstone beautifully, creating a modern and polished look. It enhances the gemstone's colour and brilliance while offering a clean, professional finish. Decorative options, like scalloped or serrated bezel wire, add unique textures and artistic details, making the setting an integral part of the design rather than just a functional element.
4. Durability
Bezel settings are known for their durability, making them ideal for everyday wear. The enclosed design protects the gemstone from external stress and secures it against dislodgement. This sturdiness is particularly beneficial for active individuals or those creating jewellery pieces meant to last a lifetime.
5. Enhanced Design Possibilities
Bezel wire opens up creative possibilities for jewellers. Whether you’re creating bold, modern pieces or intricate vintage designs, the wide variety of materials and profiles—such as plain, serrated, or ledge-style bezel wires—allows you to experiment and tailor your settings to match your vision.
6. Easy Maintenance
Jewellery featuring bezel settings is easier to clean and maintain than pieces with prong settings, as there are no small gaps or hard-to-reach areas where dirt can accumulate. This ensures that your jewellery retains its beauty with minimal effort.
These advantages make bezel wire a top choice for jewellers who want to create designs that are not only visually striking but also durable, functional, and adaptable to a variety of gemstones and styles. Whether you're designing jewellery for personal use or as part of a professional collection, bezel wire provides the foundation for creating pieces that are both timeless and practical.
Bezel Wire vs Gallery Wire: Which Should You Choose?
Bezel wire and gallery wire are both essential for jewellery making, but they serve different purposes and offer distinct advantages. Bezel wire is a simple strip of metal that wraps around a gemstone, providing a secure and clean setting. Its smooth edge and sleek appearance make it perfect for minimalist and modern designs. However, it lacks the decorative flair of gallery wire, which features intricate patterns and open designs that add visual interest to jewellery pieces. Gallery wire is ideal for ornate or vintage-inspired settings, allowing light to pass through and enhancing the brilliance of gemstones. The trade-off is that gallery wire may not offer as robust a hold as bezel wire, particularly for larger or irregularly shaped stones. While bezel wire is more versatile and easier to work with for beginners, gallery wire requires more precision and is best suited for jewellers seeking a decorative and intricate aesthetic. Ultimately, the choice depends on your design goals—bezel wire for simplicity and security, gallery wire for elegance and artistry.
FAQs About Bezel Wire
Does a bezel setting make a diamond / gemstone look smaller?
A bezel setting can make a diamond appear slightly smaller because the metal encircles the stone, covering its edges. However, it also provides a sleek and modern look while offering excellent protection.
Are bezel settings more expensive?
Not necessarily. But some bezel settings may be more expensive due to the additional metal used and the craftsmanship required. The increased security and unique aesthetic often justify the cost.
How thick should a bezel strip be?
The thickness of a bezel strip depends on the gemstone and design. Thinner strips (e.g., 28 gauge) are easier to work with, while thicker strips (e.g., 22 gauge) offer more durability.
How to solder bezel wire?
- Align the ends of the bezel wire.
- Apply flux to the joint.
- Heat the area evenly with a torch.
- Introduce solder to the joint, allowing it to flow and create a bond.
How to cut bezel wire?
Use fine precision cutters to cut bezel wire. Ensure clean, straight cuts to facilitate seamless soldering and fitting.
How to make bezel wire?
Bezel wire can be made by rolling metal sheets to the desired thickness and cutting them into strips. However, purchasing pre-made bezel wire ensures consistency and saves time.
What gauge bezel wire to use?
The gauge of bezel wire depends on the gemstone and design. Common gauges range from 22 to 28, with thinner gauges being more malleable and thicker gauges providing more strength.
What materials does Ore Metals offer for bezel wire?
We provide bezel wire in sterling silver, fine silver and solid gold alloys, including 9ct, 14ct, and 18ct yellow gold, rose gold, and white gold, as well as platinum.
Conclusion: The Versatility and Value of Bezel Wire for Jewellery Making
Bezel wire is an indispensable component in the art of jewellery making, offering both aesthetic and functional benefits. From its ability to securely encase gemstones to its role in enhancing the overall design, bezel wire is a versatile choice for both beginner and experienced jewellers. Its variety in materials, styles, and profiles ensures that every design goal, whether modern minimalism or intricate artistry, can be achieved with precision and elegance.
At Ore Metals, we pride ourselves on providing high-quality bezel wire crafted from Australian precious metals. Our extensive selection caters to all types of jewellery designs, ensuring durability, beauty, and ease of use. Whether you're creating jewellery for personal enjoyment or as part of a professional collection, our bezel wire is the foundation for achieving timeless, practical, and striking results.
Explore the endless possibilities of bezel wire, experiment with different styles, and let your creativity shine through. With the right tools, materials, and vision, you can craft pieces that are not only visually stunning but also built to last a lifetime. Let Ore Metals support your journey in jewellery making, from inspiration to creation.
