Bezel Wire for Jewellery Making

What is Bezel Wire?

Bezel wire, also known as bezel strip, is a thin strip of metal used to create a bezel setting—a rim that encircles a gemstone to hold it securely in place. This setting is a staple in jewellery making, valued for its combination of functionality and aesthetic appeal. By wrapping snugly around the gemstone's edge, bezel wire provides a secure and durable setting, ensuring the stone remains in place even with daily wear.

Unlike other settings, such as prongs, a bezel offers full or partial coverage of the gemstone's sides, making it an excellent choice for protecting softer or more fragile stones. This coverage helps prevent chips and scratches, especially for gemstones exposed to frequent handling.

From a design perspective, bezel wire enhances the overall look of a jewellery piece. Its sleek, continuous edge creates a clean, modern finish that frames the gemstone beautifully, drawing attention to its shape and colour. Bezel strips are available in a variety of materials, including sterling silver, fine silver, and solid gold alloys like 9ct, 14ct, and 18ct yellow, rose, and white gold. This range of options allows jewellers to tailor the bezel to suit different gemstones and design aesthetics.

Bezel wire also comes in various styles, such as plain, sawtooth, and stepped edges, offering creative flexibility for jewellers. Whether you're designing minimalist pieces or intricate, decorative settings, bezel wire provides a versatile foundation for achieving your vision. Its adaptability to different shapes, sizes, and styles makes it a go-to choice for both novice and experienced jewellers.

In addition to its aesthetic and protective benefits, bezel wire is relatively easy to work with, especially for beginners. It can be cut, shaped, and soldered with standard jewellery-making tools, making it a practical option for creating professional-quality settings at home or in a workshop.

Where to Buy Bezel Wire

For high-quality bezel wire, it's essential to choose a reputable supplier. Ore Metals offers an extensive selection of bezel wires crafted from Australian precious metals, including sterling silver and solid gold alloys such as 9ct, 14ct, and 18ct yellow gold, rose gold, white gold, and platinum. Our products are designed to meet the needs of both novice and experienced jewellers, ensuring durability and ease of use.

How to Use Bezel Wire

Using bezel wire involves several key steps:

1. Measuring and Cutting: Wrap the bezel wire around the gemstone to determine the required length, then cut it accordingly.
2. Forming the Bezel: Shape the wire to fit snugly around the stone, ensuring the ends meet seamlessly.
3. Soldering: Join the ends of the bezel wire using soldering techniques to create a continuous loop.
4. Setting the Stone: Place the gemstone within the bezel and Using a bezel roller and/or bezel pusher, carefully push the metal over the stone's edge to secure it.

What Size Bezel Wire to Use

Selecting the appropriate size of bezel wire depends on the dimensions of the gemstone and the desired aesthetic. The height of the bezel wire should be slightly less than the depth of the stone to ensure a secure fit without covering too much of the gem. Common heights range from 3mm to 5mm. The thickness (gauge) of the wire also matters; thinner gauges (e.g. 0.3mm / 28 gauge) are easier to manipulate, while thicker gauges (e.g. 0.5mm / 24 gauge) offer more durability. For more insights on selecting bezel wire size, refer to this discussion:

Different Types of Bezel Wire

Bezel wires come in various styles to suit different design needs:

• Plain Bezel Wire: Features a smooth, unadorned edge, ideal for minimalist designs.
• Sawtooth/Serrated Bezel Wire: Has a jagged edge that adds decorative detail and provides extra grip on the gemstone.
• Gallery Wire: Decorative wire with intricate patterns, often used to create ornate settings.
• Ledge Profile Bezel Wire: available in a thin ledge or thick ledge, allowing for customizable depth and dimension in the setting.

Each type offers unique benefits, enabling jewellers to achieve specific aesthetic and functional outcomes.

 

Benefits of Using Bezel Wire for Settings

Bezel wire is a cornerstone of jewellery design, offering a blend of functionality and elegance that enhances any piece. Whether you’re creating a statement ring or a delicate pendant, bezel wire delivers unmatched benefits:

1. Security

Bezel wire encases the gemstone completely, holding it securely in place. This protective rim shields the stone’s edges from chipping, making it ideal for softer gemstones or jewellery that will be worn frequently. Unlike prong settings, which expose parts of the gemstone, a bezel setting provides all-around coverage, reducing the risk of damage from knocks or scratches.

2. Versatility

One of the greatest advantages of bezel wire is its versatility. It can be shaped to accommodate gemstones of virtually any size or shape, from round and oval to square or custom cuts. This flexibility makes it a go-to choice for jewellers working with unique or irregularly shaped stones. Additionally, bezel wire comes in various materials, styles, and profiles, allowing it to be adapted for a wide range of design aesthetics.

3. Aesthetic Appeal

Bezel wire provides a sleek, continuous edge that frames the gemstone beautifully, creating a modern and polished look. It enhances the gemstone's colour and brilliance while offering a clean, professional finish. Decorative options, like scalloped or serrated bezel wire, add unique textures and artistic details, making the setting an integral part of the design rather than just a functional element.

4. Durability

Bezel settings are known for their durability, making them ideal for everyday wear. The enclosed design protects the gemstone from external stress and secures it against dislodgement. This sturdiness is particularly beneficial for active individuals or those creating jewellery pieces meant to last a lifetime.

5. Enhanced Design Possibilities

Bezel wire opens up creative possibilities for jewellers. Whether you’re creating bold, modern pieces or intricate vintage designs, the wide variety of materials and profiles—such as plain, serrated, or ledge-style bezel wires—allows you to experiment and tailor your settings to match your vision.

6. Easy Maintenance

Jewellery featuring bezel settings is easier to clean and maintain than pieces with prong settings, as there are no small gaps or hard-to-reach areas where dirt can accumulate. This ensures that your jewellery retains its beauty with minimal effort.

These advantages make bezel wire a top choice for jewellers who want to create designs that are not only visually striking but also durable, functional, and adaptable to a variety of gemstones and styles. Whether you're designing jewellery for personal use or as part of a professional collection, bezel wire provides the foundation for creating pieces that are both timeless and practical.

 

Bezel Wire vs Gallery Wire: Which Should You Choose?

Bezel wire and gallery wire are both essential for jewellery making, but they serve different purposes and offer distinct advantages. Bezel wire is a simple strip of metal that wraps around a gemstone, providing a secure and clean setting. Its smooth edge and sleek appearance make it perfect for minimalist and modern designs. However, it lacks the decorative flair of gallery wire, which features intricate patterns and open designs that add visual interest to jewellery pieces. Gallery wire is ideal for ornate or vintage-inspired settings, allowing light to pass through and enhancing the brilliance of gemstones. The trade-off is that gallery wire may not offer as robust a hold as bezel wire, particularly for larger or irregularly shaped stones. While bezel wire is more versatile and easier to work with for beginners, gallery wire requires more precision and is best suited for jewellers seeking a decorative and intricate aesthetic. Ultimately, the choice depends on your design goals—bezel wire for simplicity and security, gallery wire for elegance and artistry.

FAQs About Bezel Wire

Does a bezel setting make a diamond / gemstone look smaller?

A bezel setting can make a diamond appear slightly smaller because the metal encircles the stone, covering its edges. However, it also provides a sleek and modern look while offering excellent protection.

Are bezel settings more expensive?

Not necessarily. But some bezel settings may be more expensive due to the additional metal used and the craftsmanship required. The increased security and unique aesthetic often justify the cost.

How thick should a bezel strip be?

The thickness of a bezel strip depends on the gemstone and design. Thinner strips (e.g., 28 gauge) are easier to work with, while thicker strips (e.g., 22 gauge) offer more durability.

How to solder bezel wire?

1. Align the ends of the bezel wire.
2. Apply flux to the joint.
3. Heat the area evenly with a torch.
4. Introduce solder to the joint, allowing it to flow and create a bond.

How to cut bezel wire?

Use fine precision cutters to cut bezel wire. Ensure clean, straight cuts to facilitate seamless soldering and fitting.

How to make bezel wire?

Bezel wire can be made by rolling metal sheets to the desired thickness and cutting them into strips. However, purchasing pre-made bezel wire ensures consistency and saves time.

What gauge bezel wire to use?

The gauge of bezel wire depends on the gemstone and design. Common gauges range from 22 to 28, with thinner gauges being more malleable and thicker gauges providing more strength.

What materials does Ore Metals offer for bezel wire?

We provide bezel wire in sterling silver, fine silver and solid gold alloys, including 9ct, 14ct, and 18ct yellow gold, rose gold, and white gold, as well as platinum.

Conclusion: The Versatility and Value of Bezel Wire for Jewellery Making

Bezel wire is an indispensable component in the art of jewellery making, offering both aesthetic and functional benefits. From its ability to securely encase gemstones to its role in enhancing the overall design, bezel wire is a versatile choice for both beginner and experienced jewellers. Its variety in materials, styles, and profiles ensures that every design goal, whether modern minimalism or intricate artistry, can be achieved with precision and elegance.

At Ore Metals, we pride ourselves on providing high-quality bezel wire crafted from Australian precious metals. Our extensive selection caters to all types of jewellery designs, ensuring durability, beauty, and ease of use. Whether you're creating jewellery for personal enjoyment or as part of a professional collection, our bezel wire is the foundation for achieving timeless, practical, and striking results.

Explore the endless possibilities of bezel wire, experiment with different styles, and let your creativity shine through. With the right tools, materials, and vision, you can craft pieces that are not only visually stunning but also built to last a lifetime. Let Ore Metals support your journey in jewellery making, from inspiration to creation.

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