How to Solder Jewellery: A Beginner's Guide to Gold and Silver

Why Soldering? The Indispensable Jewellery Skill

Soldering is the backbone of jewellery making. It's the process of joining two pieces of metal using a filler metal (solder). This technique is essential for creating secure, seamless connections in rings, chains, pendants, and countless other jewellery designs.

These skills can help you pivot and adjust to the market. We've seen a big increase in demand for permanent jewellery, growing by 100% from 2023 to 2024, with an average of 42,000 searches per month as of early 2024​ (Glimpse)​.

 

My First Meltdown: A Lesson in Soldering

I'll never forget the first time I tried to solder a jump ring. Armed with enthusiasm, a borrowed torch, and a vague notion of what "flux" was, I set out to create a masterpiece. What I ended up with was a blackened mess, a singed finger, and a newfound respect for the delicate art of jewellery soldering.

But, as with any craft, practice makes perfect. And after countless hours, more burnt fingers, and a few more melted jump rings, I finally got the hang of it. Now, I'm here to share the knowledge I've gained, so you can skip the meltdowns and get straight to creating beautiful jewellery.

 

Soldering Basics: Flow Temperature

Flow temperature refers to the temperature at which solder melts and flows to create a joint between metal pieces. It is a critical factor in soldering processes as it determines whether the metals will properly fuse together and ultimately the strength of the joint. Choosing the appropriate flow temperature for each specific application is essential to ensure a strong, durable bond and to avoid damaging the workpieces.

Understanding Flow Temperature

The flow temperature must be high enough to allow the solder to melt and adhere to the surfaces being joined but low enough to avoid overheating and damaging the materials. Different solders have different melting points, which makes them suitable for various applications. The key is to match the flow temperature of the solder with the thermal properties of the materials being joined and the specific requirements of the application.

How to Choose the Right Flow Temperature

The correct flow temperature for a particular application will depend on a few factors:

• The Thickness of the Metal Being Soldered:

  When soldering thicker metals, higher flow temperatures are necessary. Thicker materials require more heat to reach the temperature at which the solder will melt and flow properly, ensuring a secure and complete bond. Using a solder with a higher flow temperature prevents weak joints and ensures that the heat penetrates adequately through the thicker metal, resulting in a robust and reliable connection.

• The Size of the Joint Being Soldered:

  Larger joints demand higher flow temperatures than smaller joints. The increased surface area of larger joints requires more heat to uniformly melt the solder and achieve a consistent bond. Employing a solder with a higher flow temperature helps to maintain the structural integrity of the joint, ensuring that the entire surface area is properly bonded and can withstand mechanical stresses without failure.

• The Required Tensile strength:

  Easy flow temperatures are appropriate for light-duty applications. However, when a soldered joint needs to endure significant stress or pressure, such as in pendant bails or end caps, it is advisable to use a solder with a higher flow temperature. This ensures a stronger, more durable joint capable of withstanding greater forces.

Suitable Applications for Different Flow Temperatures:

Here we outline the typical application for each flow temperature as well as some advantages and disadvantages that comes with each:

• Extra Easy 

• Applications:

  Ideal for delicate jewellery work, where minimal heat is required to avoid damaging sensitive gemstones or thin fine metals. Suitable for initial assembly stages.

• Advantages:

  Low risk of overheating, suitable for fine work, quick to melt.

• Disadvantages:

  Lower bond strength, less durable for high-stress applications.

• Easy 

• Applications:

  Commonly used for general jewellery repairs and assembly. Good for joining thin metals and small components.

• Advantages:

  Easy to work with, moderate heat requirement, good for detailed work.

• Disadvantages:

  Moderate bond strength, may not be suitable for high-stress joints.

• Medium 

• Applications:

  Suitable for medium-weight jewellery pieces and general repairs. Often used for creating bezels and larger settings.

• Advantages:

  Stronger bond compared to easy and extra easy, suitable for a variety of applications.

• Disadvantages:

  Higher heat requirement, may affect sensitive materials.

• Hard 

• Applications:

  Ideal for structural joints in jewellery, such as rings and bracelets, where a strong and durable bond is required.

• Advantages:

  High bond strength, durable joints, good for structural applications.

• Disadvantages:

  Requires higher heat, more skill needed to avoid overheating.

• Extra Hard 

• Applications:

  Used for high-stress joints and pieces that require the utmost durability, such as clasps and hinges. Also used in enamelling where lower flow temperatures would remelt during the firing process.

• Advantages:

  Maximum bond strength, excellent durability.

• Disadvantages:

  Very high heat requirement, increased risk of damaging heat-sensitive components.

Flow temp / Melting Point Chart:

Use this table to easily identify melt temperatures for common types of jewellery solder:

**

YG = Yellow Gold

RG = Rose Gold

WG = White Gold

Flow Temperature Application Chart:

Here is a chart for summarising suitable applications for quick reference.

Flow Temperature	Suitable Applications
Extra Easy	Delicate jewellery work, initial assembly
Easy	General jewellery repairs, thin metals
Medium	Medium-weight jewellery, creating bezels
Hard	Structural joints, rings, bracelets
Extra Hard	High-stress joints, clasps, hinges

Solder Sheet vs. Solder Wire vs. Solder Paste:    Choosing the Right Form for the Job

When it comes to soldering jewellery, choosing the right form of solder can significantly impact the success and ease of your project. Each type of solder – sheet, wire, and paste – also offer distinct advantages and disadvantages, making them suitable for different applications.

Solder Sheet

What is it? Solder sheet is a thin, flat piece of solder that can be cut into specific shapes and sizes, but is generally cut into small squares called "pallions" or chips.

 

Advantages

• Precision: Small chips can be precisely placed where you need them, minimising waste and mess.

 

• Uniformity: Allows for consistent amounts of solder to be used repeatedly for design balance and cohesion.

 

• Strength: Easily ensure enough solder is used to create strong, reliable joints.

 

Disadvantages

• Fiddly to Cut: Cutting can be time-consuming.

 

• Easy to Lose: After cutting into small pieces, proper storage and organisation is essential.

 

• Job Requirements: Sometimes Sweat soldering is not possible

 

• Flux Requirement: Requires flux to ensure proper flow and bonding.

Applications: Solder Sheet and Sweat Soldering

Solder sheet finds a powerful application in a technique known as "sweat soldering." This specialised method involves pre-positioning small chips of solder onto one of the pieces to be joined. Then, heat is applied to the opposite side of the metal, causing the heat to transfer through the piece and melt the solder chips, creating a secure bond.

• Example: Attaching a large face bezel cup onto a backing plate for a pendant

Solder Wire

What Is It? Solder wire is a long, thin strand that resembles round wire. It can be cut to length and easily manipulated.

 

Advantages

• Easy to Use: Wire solder is simple to cut and apply, making it a good choice for beginners and detailed work.

 

• Continuous Flow: You can feed the wire into a joint as you heat it, creating a continuous, even flow of solder.

 

• Control: Allows for precise control over the amount of solder being applied.

Disadvantages

• Requires Practice: Wire solder can be more difficult to apply precisely than sweat soldering.

 

• Potential for Waste: If not used carefully, you may end up using more solder than necessary.

 

• Flux Requirement: Requires flux to ensure proper flow and bonding.

Applications: 

Solder wire proves invaluable when precision and control are required. Unlike solder sheet, which is often used in sweat soldering, solder wire is applied directly using a solder pick, making it indispensable for jobs where pre-placing solder chips is challenging or impractical. This technique is crucial for working on small chain links or intricate pieces of jewellery where the curvature or complex shapes make sweat soldering difficult. The solder wire allows jewellers to apply solder exactly where needed, ensuring a strong bond without the risk of the solder flowing to unintended areas.

• Example: Soldering chain links, jump rings, geometrically challenging pieces 

Solder Paste

What Is It? Solder paste is a mixture of finely powdered solder and flux. It is applied with a syringe applicator.

 

Advantages

• Pre-Mixed Flux: The flux in solder paste eliminates the need for separate flux application.
• Easy to Apply: Paste solder can be easily applied with a syringe or small tool.
• Fills Gaps: It flows into small gaps and crevices, making it useful for soldering uneven surfaces.

Disadvantages

• Messy: Paste solder can be messy and difficult to clean up.

• Not Ideal for Large Joints: Not suitable for very large joints as it may not provide enough solder to fill the gap.

• Storage: Has a shorter shelf life compared to wire and sheet, and can dry out if not stored properly.

Applications: 

Solder paste is a versatile and convenient form of solder that is particularly useful in situations where precision and efficiency are paramount. Unlike solder sheet and solder wire, solder paste consists of powdered solder suspended in a flux medium, allowing it to be easily applied to detailed and intricate areas. This makes it ideal for scenarios where traditional soldering methods are impractical due to the size or complexity of the components. Solder paste is particularly effective for small, detailed work and where pre-placing solder or using a solder pick would be cumbersome.

• Example: Soldering settings to ring bands, pendant settings, Soldering an interior where a solder pick cannot reach, 

Flux and Pickle: The Unsung Heroes of Jewellery Soldering

Flux and pickle are two essential yet often overlooked components of the jewellery soldering process. Using Flux and pickle compound ensure clean, strong joints and a beautiful finish for your creations.

Flux: The Soldering Assistant

Flux is a chemical compound applied to metals before soldering. It serves several important functions:

• Prevents Oxidation:

  When metal is heated, it reacts with oxygen in the air, forming oxides that hinder the flow and bonding of solder. Flux acts as a barrier, preventing oxidation and ensuring a smooth, even flow of solder.

• Cleans the Surface:

  Flux also helps to clean the metal surface by dissolving any impurities or other contaminants that could interfere with the soldering process.

• Improves Solder Flow:

  Flux lowers the surface tension of the solder, allowing it to spread more easily and create a stronger bond.

Choosing the Right Flux

Flux comes in various grades, high temperature and low temperature. The type you choose will depend on the specific application and the metals being soldered.

• High-Temperature Flux:

  Designed for use with hard solders that require higher temperatures to melt. Suitable for soldering white gold, platinum, palladium and copper.

• Low-Temperature Flux:

  Ideal for soft solders that melt at lower temperatures. Commonly used for soldering yellow gold, rose gold and silver

How to Use Flux

1. Preparation:

   Clean your metal pieces thoroughly to remove any dirt or oils.

2. Application:

   Use a small brush to apply flux to the area you intend to solder.

3. Heating:

   Heat the piece with a soldering torch, allowing the flux to bond to the metal and form a protective layer, preventing oxidation.

4. Ready for Soldering:

   Begin soldering after the flux has been applied, ensuring a smooth flow and strong bond.

Pickle: The Post-Soldering Cleanser

Pickle, often referred to as pickle compound or pickle acid, is used to clean metal after soldering. It removes fire scale (oxidation) and any leftover flux, leaving the piece clean and ready for polishing. 

Types of Pickle

• Sodium Hydrogen Sulphate:

  Common in commercial pickle solutions.

• Citric Acid:

  A natural alternative, often preferred for its safety and eco-friendliness.

Safety Precautions

Both natural and synthetic pickle can be hazardous if not handled properly. Always wear gloves and eye protection when making, and working with pickle acid. Ensure adequate ventilation in your workspace.

How to Use Pickle

1. Mixing the Solution:

• Ratio: Mix 1 part pickle compound with 5 parts water.
• Example: For 100g of pickle, use 500ml of water.

2. Heating:

• Optimal Temperature: Heat the solution until it’s warm, but avoid boiling it.

3. Pickling Process:

• Immersion: Briefly immerse your soldered piece in the warm pickling solution.
• Duration: Avoid leaving the piece in the solution for too long to prevent damage.
• Rinsing: After pickling, rinse the jewellery thoroughly with clean water to neutralise any residual pickle solution.

Matching the Right Solder for the Correct Alloy

The final element to consider seems obvious but is also often overlooked. Selecting the appropriate solder for your specific metal alloy is fundamental to achieving seamless joins that will last a lifetime. 

For instance, when working with 9ct white gold, it's imperative to use a 9ct white gold solder. This type of solder is specifically designed to match the colour and melting properties of 9ct white gold, thereby ensuring a seamless join that is both visually consistent and structurally sound.

Using the correct solder alloy ensures not only a strong bond but also maintains the aesthetic integrity of the piece. 

Choosing Your Tools: A Soldering Arsenal

Now we have a clear understanding of the fundamentals it’s time to gather a few essential tools:

• Torch:

  Butane or propane torches are ideal for jewellery soldering. Butane torches are generally easier to control and better suited for jewellery soldering, while propane torches offer higher heat for larger projects.

• Solder:

  Choose a solder that matches the metal you are using, and a form most suitable for the job: solder wire, solder sheet, or solder paste.

• Flux:

  Determine whether higher temperature or low temperature is best suited.

• Soldering Board:

  A soldering board provides a heat-resistant surface for your work.

• Pickling Solution:

  Prepare your pickle solution so it’s warm and ready.

• Soldering Pick:

  A slender, heat-resistant tool used to apply and manipulate solder, especially in intricate work or when using wire solder.

• Tweezers:

  These are used to safely handle hot jewellery pieces during soldering and pickling, protecting your fingers from burns and your jewellery from contamination.

• Brass Brush:

  A soft brass wire brush helps remove any residual oxidation and while also giving the piece a buff polish.

• Safety Gear:

  Safety glasses and protective gloves are a must. A respirator should also be worn, even in a well ventilated area.

With these tools in hand, you'll be well-equipped to tackle a wide range of jewellery soldering projects, such as:

How to Solder Silver Jump Rings

Now that we've explored the foundations of soldering, the nuances of solder types, and the essential roles of flux and pickle, it's time to put our knowledge into action. Let's take everything we've learned and apply it to a common jewellery-making task: soldering silver jump rings.

Step 1: Prepare the Jump Rings 

 

• Cut and File: If you’ve made your own jump rings, File the cut ends flat to create a seamless join with maximum surface area contact. (Ore Metals jump rings have this step done already)

• Align and Secure: Use fine-nose pliers to gently close the jump ring, leaving a tiny gap where the ends meet. Manipulate the jump ring to create slight tension to hold the ends in place and ensure they remain parallel and perpendicular.

 

Step 2: Apply Flux 

Application: Use a small brush or solder pick to apply flux to the join area. Ensure that the flux covers the entire join to prevent oxidation.

Initial Heating: Gently heat the jump ring with a soft flame to activate the flux. This prepares the surface for soldering by cleaning it and preventing further oxidation.

 

Step 3a: For Solder Sheet or Paste

If you are using solder sheet, chips, or paste, pre-place the solder over the join line:

• Position Solder

  : Place small pieces of solder sheet directly on the join line. If using paste, apply a small amount along the join.

• Heat

  : Continue to heat the jump ring gently until the solder flows into the join, ensuring a strong bond.

Step 3b: For Solder Wire

If you prefer solder wire, follow these steps:

• Cutting Solder: Cut small lengths of solder wire, approximately a few millimetres for each jump ring to be soldered.
• Melting Solder: Use the flame to melt the small lengths of solder wire.
• Using Solder Pick: Once molten, grab the solder with a solder pick by allowing it to resolidify on the tip of the pick.

 Applying Heat and Introducing Solder 

• Heat the Area: Apply a soft flame to the soldering area, heating the jump ring evenly.
• Introduce Solder: Once the metal reaches its eutectic point (the lowest temperature at which the metal fuses homogeneously), introduce the solder using the solder pick. The solder should flow smoothly into the join, creating a strong bond.

Step 4: Cleaning 

After soldering, it’s crucial to clean the piece to remove any flux residue and oxidation:

• Pickling Process:

Briefly immerse the soldered jump ring in the warm pickling solution. Do not leave it in for too long to avoid damaging the metal.

 

• Rinsing:

Once the piece is cleaned, rinse it thoroughly with clean water to neutralise the pickling solution residue.

 

Descaling: Use a softwire brass brush to remove any excess oxidation.

By following these steps, you can achieve clean, strong, and professional-quality solder joints on your jump rings. With practice and attention to detail, soldering can become a straightforward and rewarding part of your jewellery making process.

Pro Tips and Tricks:

1. Preheat Your Soldering Board

Before you start soldering, take a moment to preheat your soldering board or fire brick. This simple step prevents the heat from being absorbed by the surface below, maintaining more stable and consistent soldering conditions. A pre-heated surface ensures that your jump rings reach the correct temperature more efficiently, allowing the solder to flow smoothly and create a strong bond.

2. Patience is Severely Underrated

One of the most important lessons in soldering is to take your time. Rushing through the process will lead to mistakes. Every time I've rushed, I've melted my jump rings into oblivion. Be patient and methodical in your approach. Let the metal heat up gradually, and learn to watch for the signs that it's ready for soldering. 

3. Practice Makes Perfect

Soldering is a skill that improves with practice. Developing an eye for the right moment to introduce the solder comes with experience. Spend some dedicated time practising soldering. One effective exercise is to solder, cut, and re-solder the same jump rings repeatedly. After soldering 50 jump rings, you'll start to get the hang of it. After 100, you'll feel like a master. This repetitive practice helps you learn to recognize the glow of the metal when it's ready for soldering.

4. Gold vs Silver

Although gold and silver share some characteristics, their behaviour during soldering and their heat conductivity properties are noticeably different. For instance, if you have two identical large signet rings, one made of solid 9ct gold and the other of 925 silver, and you apply an identical torch flame to both, you will notice that the gold ring heats up and reaches soldering temperature faster than the silver ring, despite gold's higher melting point.

This difference is primarily due to heat conductivity. Gold is significantly better at conducting heat and transferring it uniformly throughout the metal. This means that when you heat a gold piece, the heat spreads quickly and evenly, reaching soldering temperature more efficiently.

In contrast, silver requires a uniform heating over the entire piece to achieve the required temperature at the join line. Silver's lower heat conductivity means that the heat doesn't spread as efficiently, requiring more time and careful application of the torch to ensure the entire piece reaches the appropriate temperature for soldering.

Soldering jewellery is both an art and a science. Whether you're just starting or refining your skills, patience and practice are key. With the insights and tips shared in this guide, you're well on your way to mastering the delicate art of jewellery soldering. Remember, each project is an opportunity to learn and perfect your craft! 

If you find you are getting stuck or need some assistance, don’t hesitate to reach out to the team via info@ore-metals.com and we’d be more then happy to help! 

Discover the extensive range of solder sheet, solder wire and solder paste available at Ore Metals, the premier destination to buy jewellery making solder.

Don’t just take our word for it, with over 2000 5 star reviews, it’s clear why our beautiful customers keep coming back!

 

About the Author:

Oliver C is a passionate advocate for the artistry and innovation within the world of jewellery making, and is the founder of Ore Metals. His ten-year odyssey through the precious metals industry has exposed him to a vast and diverse landscape. From collaborating with independent jewellers crafting unique masterpieces to working with international manufacturers on a large scale, Oliver has a deep understanding of the industry's intricacies. His journey even led him through one of the world's largest precious metal conglomerates, where he played a pivotal role in pioneering the adoption of groundbreaking technology. Oliver’s extensive experience allows him to translate his knowledge into insightful articles that empower and inspire jewellery makers of all skill levels.